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310 WITH THE GERMAN ARMIES IN THE WEST
roads were slippery and unreliable and a great wet blanket of
fog darkened the whole of north-eastern France.
At first we took the great main road to Arras, which we
kept to as long as we possibly could without exposing our-
selves to shell fire. At Boiry, almost levelled to the ground
by fire and shell, we turned off to the right, but lost our way
in the tangle of by-roads, until at Croisilles we once more got
on to the right track. Here the Red Cross flag was hanging
from many houses, and we saw the wounded being carried
into the hospitals. A column of light field howitzers rolled
away towards Arras. In a field some soldiers were placidly
digging potatoes, and near by old men, women and children
were gathering in the sugar-beet, which is an important item
of cultivation in these parts.
At last we come out on the great main road between Cam-
brai and Douai. The streets of the latter town are filled with
civilians and military. After crossing the Pont-a-Marcq we
reach the outer girdle of forts at Lille, and in a few minutes
we drive in through the Porte Douai. The part of the town
nearest this gate is in ruins. The Germans, who at this point
were advancing seven or eight battalions strong with artillery,
wanted to spare the town and tried to induce its authorities
to capitulate. The French resisted. Thereupon the Germans
unlimbered a battery inside the gate and shelled the nearest
houses and streets. The Mairie and railway station were
also brought under fire, the latter in order to stop all transport
facilities. The town fell without having suffered any appreci-
able damage. The quarters exposed to the bombardment
and which I had an opportunity of visiting, have, however,
been reduced to ruins and the part round the Porte Douai
presents a sad picture of desolation. The worst damage had
been done by shells which burst after they had penetrated
into the lower part of a house. The effect of the detonation
spreads to all the storeys and everything collapses utterly.
In many cases nothing but skeletons and iron girders remain.
Otherwise Lille is quite untouched. One can pass through
one street after the other from beginning to end without
noticing any trace of shell fire. In the central parts of the town
the traffic is almost animated and there are plenty of people
about. Young women of not even doubtful virtue and dressed
in almost the latest fashion flit about like butterflies on the
pavements. Many shops and hotels are open, and seem to be
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