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i6o ADVENTURES IN TIBET.
and shrilled through the kamish, the long sharp leaves
of which threatened to cut our faces had we not kept them
off with our arms. Thanks to them, however, we had a
smooth passage through the Jekkenlik-kol. For my own
part I snoozed, for I was unable to see anything at all,
and could hear nothing for the deafening roar of the tempest.
It was only the measured clicking of the paddles which
told me that we were moving at all.
At length the reeds began to thin. A single spot in
the wall of darkness ahead gleamed out a murky yellow,
then grew quickly brighter—it was fire. Two seconds later
we reached our ferry-boat. The air was so heavily charged
with dust that we were unable to see the fire more than a
score of paces away, and yet it was burning at white-heat
in the fierce blast.
This was one of the very worst storms I have ever
experienced. Our old ferry-boat was threatening every
moment to break loose and drift across the lake, until we
doubled all her cables. In the evening I packed away all
smaller objects into my boxes ; and it was fortunate I
did so, for in the middle of the night the hut was blown
over, and had to be hurriedly fastened down with ropes.
But I must now cut short the story of our drift down the
river, loath though I am to part from it, for it counts
amongst the happiest recollections of my life.
Leaving the lakes behind us, we once more pushed out
upon the Tarim. Late one night we were encamped in a
quiet, peaceful recess by the river side. The men had
already gone to bed, and I was sitting up alone writing.
All at once the dogs began to bark furiously. I heard
the splashing of paddles, and a canoe shot to the side of
the ferry-boat. After a quick conversation I heard hurried
steps approach, the curtain of my hut was lifted, and an
unknown stranger presented himself. He was a courier
from Kashgar, bringing with him a heavy post-bag of
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