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CHAPTER XIV.
One of the old Norwegian roads — A diplomatic boatman —
“Tilsegelse” — Blundering tourists — Posting charges — The “dagbog”
— Obligations of the tourist to the station keepers — A long stormy
row on the Bredhjem’s Vand — Getting wet and being wet — A
Valley of Desolation — The most effective of all agricultural machines
— The Jolster Vand — Black lakes — The colour of water — An
explanation of this — Bituminous matter suspended in bog-waters,
and the carbon particles upon which its colour depends — The Ulda
Foss — Our condition at Nedre Vasenden — The efficiency of the
Swedish stove — Bracing influence of northern air — Drive to
Sande.
August 21st.—The toughest day’s journey of all
our trip is now before us. Its length is inevitable,
as all the intermediate stations are mere hovels,
some so bad, that I should be inclined to shirk
them even if travelling alone, though I am not at
all fastidious, and can sleep well enough even if
the number of fleas exceeds the average; do not
examine the bedding microscopically, provided a
mountain stream, or lake, or other modification of
clean water, is within easy reach on the following
morning.
Forbud was absolutely necessary, and I had
great difficulty in finding a man at Udvig last
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