Full resolution (JPEG) - On this page / på denna sida - CHAPTER I. Contrasts — Development of Norwegian tourist traffic — Passengers on the ‘Argo,’ and their tub of introduction — Whales — The Norwegian coast — Stavanger — Glacier vestiges in the High Street — Bergen — Indoor ivy — A Church of England Service conducted in the spirit of Primitive Christianity — Northward Ho! — Aalesund — Christiansund — Delay and disappointment — Trondhjem — Northern luxury — The Cathedral — The Falls of the Nid — A terraced valley — Prosperous farmers — The “Störhaus”— Glacial origin of the terraces.
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parts of Norway, but do not remember to have
seen it in 1856.
After breakfast a well-known member of the
Alpine Club, and son of a distinguished literary
canon, invited us to a service to be conducted by
himself and a brother clergyman in an adjoining
hotel. The second clergyman was the same that
announced the “tub.” The invitation was
gratefully accepted, although most of the ladies are
Dissenters, and myself a heretic.
Both of the clergymen are Alp climbers, and
both officiated in their climbing clothes, their frieze
jackets, hob-nailed boots, coloured flannel shirts,
&c. The church was an unconsecrated capacious
wooden bedroom, the pulpits were heavy deal
chairs, and the lectern a deal dressing table. We
seven formed a majority of the congregation. The
service was one of the most impressive I have ever
attended, and the main source of this
impressiveness was, doubtless, the absence of all histrionic
adjuncts, permitting the moral earnestness of the
clergymen to exert its full, direct, and
unadulterated influence.
To one who, like myself, has done a little behind
the footlights, the robing in the vestry is
irresistibly suggestive of the “making up” in the
greenroom; and altar furnishings and decorations
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