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NORWAY, AND DENMARK. 179
pretty towns; Itzchol particularly pleased me; and
the country, still wearing the same aspect, was improved
by the appearance of more trees and enclosures. But
what gratified me most was the population. I was
weary of travelling four or five hours, never meeting a
carriage, and scarcely a peasant ;
and then to stop at
such wretched huts as I had seen in Sweden was surely
sufficient to chill any heart awake to sympathy, and
throw a gloom over my favourite subject of contem-
plation, the future improvement of the world.
The farmhouses, likewise, with the huge stables,
into which we drove whilst the horses were putting to
or baiting, were very clean and commodious. The
rooms, with a door into this hall-like stable and store-
house in one, were decent ;
and there was a compact-
ness in the appearance of the whole family lying thus
snugly together under the same roof that carried my
fancy back to the primitive times, which probably
never existed with such a golden lustre as the animated
imagination lends when only able to seize the prominent
features.
At one of them, a pretty young woman, with lan-
guishing eyes of celestial blue, conducted us into a very
neat parlour, and observing how loosely and lightly
my little girl was clad, began to pity her in the sweetest
accents, regardless of the rosy down of health on her
cheeks. This same damsel was dressed—it was Sunday
—with taste and even coquetry, in a cotton jacket,
ornamented with knots of blue ribbon, fancifully dis-
posed to give life to her fine complexion. I loitered a
little to admire her, for every gesture was graceful;
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