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was sinking into a grave when I entered them; for,
immersed in down placed in a sort of box, I expected
to be suffocated before morning. The sleeping
between two down beds—they do so even in summer—must
be very unwholesome during any season; and I
cannot conceive how the people can bear it, especially
as the summers are very warm. But warmth they
seem not to feel; and, I should think, were afraid of
the air, by always keeping their windows shut. In the
winter, I am persuaded, I could not exist in rooms thus
closed up, with stoves heated in their manner, for they
only put wood into them twice a day; and, when the
stove is thoroughly heated, they shut the flue, not
admitting any air to renew its elasticity, even when
the rooms are crowded with company. These stoves
are made of earthenware, and often in a form that
ornaments an apartment, which is never the case with
the heavy iron ones I have seen elsewhere. Stoves
may be economical, but I like a fire, a wood one, in
preference; and I am convinced that the current of
air which it attracts renders this the best mode of
warming rooms.
We arrived early the second evening at a little village
called Quistram, where we had determined to pass the
night, having been informed that we should not afterwards
find a tolerable inn until we reached Stromstad.
Advancing towards Quistram, as the sun was beginning
to decline, I was particularly impressed by the
beauty of the situation. The road was on the declivity
of a rocky mountain, slightly covered with a mossy
herbage and vagrant firs. At the bottom, a river,
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