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144 THROUGH NORWAY WITII A KNAPSACK.
diminished in magnitude, illustrating the effect of snow
upon mountain scenery. I should advise those who
wish to see this splendid coast to full advantage, to
visit it at the beginning of July, or even a week
earlier. The midnight sun may be seen for a month
after the longest day, but every day considerably lessens
the quantity of snow. The middle of June is rather
too early, for then the weather is uncertain, and the
mists have not yet cleared. When time permits, the
best course would be to make the northward journey
about the middle of June, spend a fortnight about the
North Cape, Hammerfest, and Alten, and then return
early in July. By this means the wondrous rapidity
of vegetation, and something of the contrast between
the northern winter and summer, might be witnessed;
for there is no spring or autumn here, and winter
changes at once to summer early in June.
The amphibious character of the Norwegians is seen
at the stations, where children seven or eight years of
age are paddling alone in boats around the steamer.
They manage their boats admirably, rowing with a pair
of oars, backing water with one hand and pulling with
another, in a manner calculated to excite the liveliest
envy in the breast of any of our amateurs of rowing.
Even our oavu fishermen would think it unsafe for such
young children to be out thus upon the sea.
We went ashore at Bodö, and the three Oxford
students remained. The Norwegians of the coast seem
to be but little addicted to hospitality; for the Oxonians
had almost as much difficulty in procuring any sort of
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