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CHAPTER VI.
The Loffoden Islands—The fish harvest—Cod-liver oil—Continuous
and growing grandeur of the coast scenery—The Maelstrom a
myth — Cowardice of the Ancient Greeks and Romans — The
arctic summer—Rapidity of vegetation—Tromsö—Her Majesty’s
representative—An encampment of Laplanders—Excessive heat
—Physiognomy and general appearance of the
Lapps—Construction and interior economy of a Lapp hut—Love of home
and domestic snugness — The midnight sun — Lapps in their
Sunday clothes—Moral and religious character of the Lapps—
Drunkenness no longer prevalent—A Lapp
aristocrat—Adaptation of the eye to cold climates.
Leaving the mainland and its fiords the next da)", we
crossed over to the Loffoden Islands. These are, if
possible, still wilder and grander than the mainland:
sharp granite pyramids springing from the sea to a height
of 3,000 or 4,000 feet, and breaking at their summits
into a countless multitude of jagged points, thoroughly
justifying Mr. Everest’s comparison with a shark’s jaw.
The snow lies thickly in the hollows of these teeth and
spines, but there are rich green pasture patches even
here, and sheep, cattle, and goats are to be seen
occasionally ; but the chief harvest of this region is a sort of
codfish,* and this harvest was now in course of reaping.
We could smell the land as we approached it, where acres
and acres of rock were covered with the split fish lying
* Called Haik, or coal-fisli, by our fishermen.
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