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therefore used by most visitors to the N. Cape. The methodical
and ultra-punctual way in which the programme is gone through
deprives the voyage of much of the charm of novelty, while the
life on hoard is exactly similar to that in a large hotel on shore.
The finest points may he passed in fog or rain. Those, therefore,
who are not pressed for time and who wish to study the life and
customs of the inhabitants as well as the beauties of nature, should
travel by the mail-steamers, which are also well equipped and
scarcely inferior to the tourist steamers in the matter of food.
A sufficiency of repose is an urgent necessity on an excursion
to the Nordland. As there is scarcely an uninteresting point on
the whole voyage and as in the height of summer daylight never
entirely disappears, the traveller feels naturally averse to wasting
any of his time in the unconsciousness of sleep. This feeling,
however, should not be yielded to, and all who wish to avoid
overstrain and nervous exhaustion should sleep for at least 4-6 hrs.
after midnight and other 2 hrs. after dinner. The sleeping-places
in the saloon must be quitted by 6 a. m. and those who desire to
sleep in comfort should endeavour betimes to secure a berth in
one of the state-rooms. The best and only sure plan is to apply
beforehand to the steamboat office at Bergen or at Throndhjem
(according to the company to which the steamer belongs ; comp,
p. 225 and the Norges Communicationer) or to the agent
Berg-Hansen at Christiania. On receiving an affirmative reply it is
necessary to forward the amount of the fare at once, as otherwise
the berth will not be reserved. If the traveller has not ordered a
cabin in advance he should lose no time on going on board in
selecting the best of the still vacant berths, though he will seldom
find any free except those in the saloon. In the mail-steamers,
however, there is always the chance of securing a berth vacated by
a passenger leaving the ship at one of the intermediate stations.
The vessel’s course lies almost always within the island-belt
(‘indenskjars’), and sea-sickness is of rare occurrence. From the
Skjargaard, however, a view of the open sea is frequently obtained
beyond the lower Skjeer, or Veer, as they are sometimes called.
A coasting voyage of moderate length has many attractions.
The captain and crew are usually very obliging and
communicative, especially if the traveller shows an interest in their country.
The Pilots (Lodsen) are especially well informed and intelligent.
Two of them navigate the vessel from Christianssand to
Throndhjem, two from Throndhjem to Hammerfest, and two others thence
to Vadse, one of them always being on duty, except when the
steamer is stationary. They are appointed by government, and
each receives 140 kr. per month, besides his board. The number
of pilots proper is, however, inadequate for the great traffic, and
their place is often filled by other qualified persons (Kjendtmcend).
Among the deck-passengers there are sometimes Lapps (here
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