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180 THROUGH NORWAY WITII A KNAPSACK.
was proved; a present of a few of these things being
received with immense delight. I should advise all
tourists who propose penetrating to the less-frequented
parts of Norway to carry a few such portable trifles.
Artificial flies are specially acceptable. On the main
highways, the coin of the realm are the best; but in
such places as this, a little present, which is not a mere
business payment, but a friendly offering of gratitude
and good-will, is estimated far beyond its uttermost
value.
My dinner at the station where we landed was a
thorough Norwegian repast, consisting of the Roman
cement, with butter, and some sour curd. I now learnt
the reason of that strange sweeping motion of the hand
and the stretching out the spoon at arm’s length, which
I have observed to be the universal habit of the peoj^le
when eating such a dish as this: it is because the curd,
being a sort of new cheese, draws out into strings,
which otherwise would fall upon one’s clothes. No
charge was made for this, and when I offered 8
skil-lings, about 3the woman of the house was amazed
at my prodigality, and thanked me most cordially in
the expressive Norwegian mode of shaking, or rather
squeezing, hands.
After this crossing of the water, came another cross-
o J
ing of the land—an isthmus like the last; but the
road now skirts a narrow branch of the fiord, studded
with rich wooded islands, and backed by the purple
and snow-patched mountains of the Romsdal. The
landlocked termination of the fiord forms one
of the
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