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near every island, and the air is full of sea-gulls. Not unfrequéntly
the traveller may see the industrious sea-gull (Krykke) robbed of
its prey by the skua (Lestris parasitica), which, unable to fish for
itself, compels the gull to drop its booty and catches it with
unerring dexterity before it reaches the water. A peculiar ruffling
of the water is sometimes caused by the shoals of herrings
(Sild-stime), often pursued by the voracious Sei (‘saith’, or hake, one of
the Gadidce), or by a seal (Sælhund), to escape from which they
dart into the nets and even spring ashore.
The scenery with which the writer was most struck extends
from the Arctic Circle (the Hestmandø) to the Lofoden Islands
and the S. extremity of Hinde (Lødingen), where the grandest
mountains and glaciers are seen in close proximity to the sea.
A girdle consisting of numerous islands, some of which rise to a
height of several thousand feet, here stretches far out to sea, while
the fjord? extend as far in the opposite direction, reaching to the
bases of the lofty inland mountains.
A trip to Bode and as far as Lødingen in the Lofoden Islands
will thus comprise some of the most characteristic features of these
northern regions; but, if possible, the voyage should be extended
to Tromsø and Hammerfest for the sake of seeing the Lyngenfjord
and the island scenery of the Arctic Ocean, the finest of the kind
in Europe. But the North Cape itself forms the most natural limit
to the journey. Europe there terminates, and the Arctic regions
begin; and there, too, the sublime scenery of the Norwegian coast
may be said to culminate, as that of the N. and N.E. coasts begins
to show a falling off in point of grandeur and interest.
A protracted voyage ^mong the fjords is often productive of
a kind of physical and mental lethargy, which sadly mars the
traveller’s enjoyment and is not easily shaken off, while the
confinement, the not unfrequent overcrowding and want of ventilation,
and the daily round of meals at the table d’hfite are very apt to
become irksome. Even beyond Throndhjem every possible
opportunity should be taken of breaking the voyage by excursions on
land; and a voyage to any distant station and back by the same
steamer should by all means be avoided. Travellers by the
tourist-steamers have time to pay short visits to the Torghatten and the
camp of the Lapps at Tromsø, and to ascend the North Cape. But
a longer interruption of the journey is possible to passengers by
the mail-steamers, who may land at the best points for
making-excursions, as for example Bodø, Svolvær, and Tromsø, and either
spend a few days at each and go on by the next steamer, or
continue their journey by inland routes and local steamers.
Breaks in the Voyage. Among the more interesting of such
breaks may be mentioned: —
1. Journey by Land from Throndhjem, or from V<rrdnl&øren, to
Namsos; visit to the /■’iskwmfos (p. 2‘2j).
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