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to Lærdalsøren. Or the first night may he spent at Eæs, the second at
Bjøberg, and the third at Lærdalsøren. If, however, the traveller is much
pressed for time, it is possible, by travelling 14-18 hrs. a day, to reach
Lærdalsøren in 2 days (spending the night at Eolfshus). As almost all the
stations on this route are either comfortable or at least very tolerable,
the traveller may divide the journey as best suits his convenience. The
stations to be avoided as affording little or no accommodation are
Aavestrud, Bortnæs, Yiko. and Kleven. The charge for a horse and
carriole is 17 0. per Kil. at all the stations on this route. Adding to this the
usual gratuity of 15 0. per 10 Kil. . the total cost of horses and carrioles
from Gulsvik to Lærdal is about 38 kr. for each person. For a carriage
with a hood, and a pair of horses (‘Caleschvogn’), for two persons, 100 kr.
is the usual fare, to which must be added a gratuity of 5-6 kr.
The most direct route from Christiania to the Sognefjord is through
the Hallingdal, and the new Bergen and Vossevangen railway is to be
continued through this valley; but the scenery is inferior to that on the
Valders route. The lower part of the Hallingdal is somewhat monotonous
in character, while the greater part of the Hemsedal is very bleak and
dreary. From the upper ramifications of the Hallingdal diverge several
wild mountain-passes to the Sognefjord and Hardanger Fjord, but the
traveller who crosses them must be prepared for privations. The name
of Hallingdal is applied not merely to the valley itself, but to all the
numerous lateral valleys from which streams descend to the
Hallingdals-Elv, that is, to the entire district which is bounded on the N. and E.
by Valders, on the. S. by the Numedal, and on the W. by the Hardanger
region.
Owing to the long isolation of this district, and especially of its side
valleys, from the rest of the world, many of its old Norwegian
characteristics have survived ; and the traveller will often meet with curious old
buildings, carved wooden tankards and furniture, and picturesque costumes.
The people are remarkable for the tenacity with which they adhere to
their ancient customs and numerous traditions, many of which may here
be traced to their historical origin. Of this district it has been said that
‘the knife lies loosely in its sheath’, and the inhabitants unfortunately
still sometimes betray the irascible and passionate disposition which used
to find vent in the ‘girdle duel’, where the combatants CBceltespænder’)
were bound together with their belts and fought with their knives (p. 341).
As an outcome of this excitable temperament may be mentioned the wild
Hallingdans or Springdans, accompanied by a weird kind of music
CFani-tallen’) which has been ascribed to Satanic influence. — In connection with
this subject the reader is referred to the following works: ‘Norsk Lyrik’,
Christiania, 1874, containing ‘Asgaardsrejen’, a poem by Welhaven, and
‘Fanitullen’. another by Moe: ‘Søgnir fra Hallingdal’ by E. Kielsen; and
‘Norske Bygdesagn by L. Daae.
Railway from Cliristiania to (96 Kil.) Vikersund, see R. “2.
A branch-line (carriages changed) leads hence to (12 Kil.) Snarum
and —
26 Kil. Krøderen (Restaurant; *Inn, opposite the station,
clean and comfortable), prettily situated at the S. end of Lake
Krøderen (445 ft.), and near the efflux of the Snarums-Elv, which
falls into the Drammens-Elv near Aamot. The steamboat-pier is
10 min. walk from the station. The lower part of the lake is narrow
and shallow, and its banks are smiling and tolerably well cultivated;
but it afterwards expands, and the scenery assumes a more
mountainous character, especially beyond Naes, where the imposing
Norefjeld rises on the left, 4500 ft. above the lake.
The interesting Ascext op the Norefjeld (10 hrs.) is best made from
Fore, where the road crosses the narrowest part of the Krøderen. We
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