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head of the fjord). Near it are several Koldehuller (‘ice-cavities’)
resembling those in the Osedal (p. 60). A path, improved by the
‘Turistforening’, conducts us along the right hank of the foaming
stream to the (5 Kil.) head of the valley, which terminates
abruptly in a huge wall of rock, over which falls the imposing
Rembesdalsfos. To the E. is seen the *Skykjedalsfos, a fine
waterfall 2000 ft. high, part of which is a perpendicular leap of 700 ft.
— Travellers who desire to extend their excursion, may ascend to
the Rembesdalsvand, a lake to the N.E., to which a glacier of the
Hardanger Jekul (6540 ft.) descends. The most interesting point
of view is a precipitous wall of rock opposite the Skykjefos, from
which we command a view of the fall, and look sheer down into
the valley beneath.
From Vik i øifjord, Kinservik, Ullensvang, Espen, and Skjæggedal,
rough and fatiguing mountain-paths, rarely trodden except by
reindeerstalkers, cross the wild and desolate Hardanger Vidda to the Hallingdal
and to Telemarken in 2-3 days. All the Telemarken routes unite at
the base of Haarteigen (5550 ft.), a mountain of truncated conical form
{Teig , Teigjen, ‘an allotment of land’, ‘a clearing’), where an excellent
idea of the extremely bleak and dreary character of the Norwegian
‘Høi-fjeld’ scenery may be formed. On every side extends a lofty and sterile
table-land, rarely relieved by mountain-summits, while the distant
snow-mountains (Gavsla , Hardanger Jøkul, and Storfonn) present a flat and
shapeless appearance. Far and wide not a trace of human habitations, or
even a valley suggestive of their existence, is to be seen. The angler,
however. will be interested to hear that the numerous mountain-lakes
teem with life (excellent ‘Fjeldørreter’ or mountain - trout), while the
sportsman will often have an opportunity of shooting wildfowl, eagles,
and reindeer, the last of which follow the migrations of the lemmings
(see p. 151). The atmosphere on this mountain-plateau, 3000-4000 ft. above
the sea-level, is exceedingly clear and bracing, but mists and storms are
of frequent occurrence. — Travellers or sportsmen traversing this region
must spend one or more nights in a sæter, in the hut of a
reindeerstalker ( Vejdemtend) or fisherman, or in a still more wretched Fælager
(p. 133), or shepherd’s hut, no other shelter of any kind being procurable.
From Vik i Øifjord to Odde. The steamer skirts the S.
bank of the Eidfjord, the highest summit of which is the
Skod-dals-Fjaren. Some of the steamers touch at Ringeen, on the E.
bank, near the mouth of the fjord, a little beyond which we steer
into the narrow arm of the Hardanger called the **Sørfjord (‘south
fjord’), 6 M. (24 Engl. M.)in length, its entrance being formed
by the Tronas on the 4V. and the Kirkenas on the E. side. The
next station, about 4 M, from Vik, is —
124 Kil. (77 Engl. M. from Tereen) Grimo (*Inn), a pretty place
on the W. bank, which is well cultivated here, and yields the
morella and other cherries in abundance. A beautiful walk may be
taken to the S. to (20 min.) the top of the Haugsnas, and another
to the N. to the (20 min.) Tronas, which affords a view of the
Kinservik (p. 64). The contrast between the wild and bleak
mountains rising above the fjord and the fertile land at their bases is
most striking on the Serfjord, and is most apparent when observed
from the banks themselves.
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